Back in July we were given another and one of the last challenges on Couture Doll Shops. This one was on the current Steampunk craze. NOw I love Steampunk, and there are so many different genres of it, I had to decide which way to go. First thoughts would have been using one of my larger BJD’s to model, but I had just got my new OOAK Numina from Paul Pham and really wanted to use her.
Victorian and historical clothing are one of my favorites to design- funny how I never really paid attention to it when I was younger and going to fashion schools. One always appreciates the past as they get older. I think I am also much more into fashion in a different way than I was back then too. I can see the influences past and historical fashion has on current designers- although some of the greats (John Galliano, Christian LaCroix, McQueen) are not showing designs at the moment, two being out of work and the last having passed away.
Anyway, I wanted to Victorian influences as the base of my design. Stay with the true Steampunk origins. Lots of research of Steampunk went into finding out what Steampunk really was- so many blogs and websites. It really is quite interesting.
I decided on a a corset, jacket and short skirt with a bustled back. I didn’t take too many pics while making it but did take some- so here’s how it went.
Making the Corset
Trying to do something a little different than just a corset so I decided to quilt the fabric like I have in some previous designs:
I used my basic corset pattern drafted a while ago but had to fit it to the Numina body. Muslin sample:
From the fabric stash (since I am trying to use up the fabric I have on hand) here are the fabric choices for a old Victorian feel
Ivor silk brocade, tan and ivory herringbone twill with just a touch of rose stripe, and a rust colored crossdye silk taffeta.
Quilted taffeta for the corset
First I quilted the taffeta then cut out my adjusted pattern pieces diagonally on the fabric.
Because the quilted taffeta has a stabilizer for the quilting I did not need to interface the body but did interface the lining.
Corset taking shape
corset lining in ivory brocade
Finishing the corset up, the top and bottom are banded with bias cut strips and hand sewn on the back. Antique brass eyelets for lacing are added and the corset it done! Now onto the skirt. My time is starting to run out………
Finished corset with banded edges
Corset back with eyelets and lacing
Assembling the Skirt
The skirt I made out of the ivory brocade, a basic mini skirt, and added a drape like the Victorian fashions, in the taffeta. The train I drafted by hand, cut it out in muslin to make sure I had the right shape and sewed it up in the taffeta with the brocade lining it. This I hand sewed on to the back of the skirt.
Skirt with drape
Train ready to be hand sewn onto skirt
The last part was the bustle and this was a little tricky to figure out. I din’t want something super large and wanted something light enough that could also be removes. I also wanted to use lace. The brocade was just too heavy to do a full bustle out of. Again I drafted a shape out of paper to test it, cut it out of a nylon tulle and sewed layers of pregathered lace onto it. Finding the right lace at the right width was a challenge, I liked how it turned out though
the top was banded, then attached using snaps
From here my time was really short and I made the jacket without pictures. It was lined in the ivory brocade.
A top hat was also made and I’ll add a tutorial for that later.
Love how the photo shoot turned out.
Steampunk Couture can be viewed and purchased at Madeleine Rose Couture