Tag Archives: historical costume

Steampunk Couture

Back in July we were given another and one of the last challenges on Couture Doll Shops.  This one was on the current Steampunk craze.  NOw I love Steampunk, and there are so many different genres of it, I had to decide which way to go.  First thoughts would have been using one of my larger BJD’s to model, but I had just got my new OOAK Numina from Paul Pham and really wanted to use her.

Victorian and historical clothing are one of my favorites to design- funny how I never really paid attention to it when I was younger and going to fashion schools. One always appreciates the past as they get older.  I think I am also much more into fashion in a different way than I was back then too.  I can see the influences past and historical fashion has on current designers- although some of the greats (John Galliano, Christian LaCroix, McQueen) are not showing designs at the moment, two being out of work and the last having passed away.

Anyway, I wanted to Victorian influences as the base of my design.  Stay with the true Steampunk origins.  Lots of research of Steampunk went into finding out what Steampunk really was- so many blogs and websites.  It really is quite interesting.

I decided on a a corset, jacket and short skirt with a bustled back.  I didn’t take too many pics while making it but did take some- so here’s how it went.

Making the Corset

Trying to do something a little different than just a corset so I decided to quilt the fabric like I have in some previous designs:

I used my basic corset pattern drafted a while ago but had to fit it to the Numina body.  Muslin sample:

From the fabric stash (since I am trying to use up the fabric I have on hand) here are the fabric choices for a old Victorian feel

Ivor silk brocade, tan and ivory herringbone twill with just a touch of rose stripe, and a rust colored crossdye silk taffeta.

Quilted taffeta for the corset

First I quilted the taffeta then cut out my adjusted pattern pieces diagonally on the fabric.

Because the quilted taffeta has a stabilizer for the quilting I did not need to interface the body but did interface the lining.

Corset taking shape

corset lining in ivory brocade

Finishing the corset up, the top and bottom are banded with bias cut strips and hand sewn on the back.  Antique brass eyelets for lacing are added and the corset it done!  Now onto the skirt.  My time is starting to run out………

Finished corset with banded edges

Corset back with eyelets and lacing

Assembling the Skirt

The skirt I made out of the ivory brocade, a basic mini skirt, and added a drape like the Victorian fashions, in the taffeta.    The train I drafted by hand,  cut it out in muslin to make sure I had the right shape and sewed it up in the taffeta with the brocade lining it.  This I hand sewed on to the back of the skirt.

Skirt with drape

Train ready to be hand sewn onto skirt

The last part was the bustle and this was a little tricky to figure out.  I din’t want something super large and wanted something light enough that could also be removes.  I also wanted to use lace.  The brocade was just too heavy to do a full bustle out of.   Again I drafted a shape out of paper to test it, cut it out of a nylon tulle and sewed layers of pregathered lace onto it.  Finding the right lace at the right width was a challenge,  I liked how it turned out though

the top was banded, then attached using snaps

From here my time was really short and I made the jacket without pictures.  It was lined in the ivory brocade.

A top hat was also made and I’ll add a tutorial for that later.

Love how the photo shoot turned out.

Steampunk Couture

Steampunk Couture can be viewed and purchased at Madeleine Rose Couture

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Romance is in the Air- Part 2

So I finally am able to post the pics now, and give you a little insight to my thought process on this Romance Challenge from the Couture Doll Shops.  The entries were published in the latest FDQ magazine-Romance edition- as well as a link from Couture Doll Shops to a voting page.  Tomorrow we will find out who won the challenge by popular vote.  So wish me luck!!

When we were given the instructions for this latest challenge, I knew I wanted to use my BJD’s rather than the 16″ fashion dolls.  I needed to represent my Angel Rose shop (located in Couture Court in the Couture Doll Shops).  I have done so many challenges using the fashion dolls that my BJD’s were getting neglected.  I also knew I wanted to do something with historical inspiration, because I think the historical dress is so romantic.

First was going through my books on historical detail and fashion, and finding my fabric.  I had quite a bit of off white silk dupioni that I really needed to start using and white/ivory is very romantic and bridal.  But I didn’t want to do a bridal look per-say.  Also, white and ivory seemed very in-fashion at the moment.  I also knew I wanted to do a corset and a full skirt. 

To top it off, a bonnet made of buckram and millinery wire, covered in the matching silk with a pleated under lining and flowers. (I didn’t get a chance to take many pictures while completing this ensemble-hubby was using my camera quite a bit for his stuff) I was actually sewing this hat during one of my daughters volleyball games hoping to get it finished in time.  I’m always completing at the last minute.

bonnet partly completed

under brim pleating

I did get it completed on time and the pics taken in time for the magazine.

Romance challenge entry White Rose

Along with the photos we needed to submit a paragraph explaining what our Romance depicted.  Here’s my little romance story:

A tortured romantic soul-she wanders aimlessly, not knowing when the eras or time begins or ends, as her fashion shows in a mixture of historical styles.

A ghostlike figure forever searching for the one true love she lost….

each picture had a caption to it

A lone figure wanders aimlessly
She pauses…Does she see her one lost love?
She looks longingly at the apparition of the one she lost
A ghostly figure clad in white says goodbye…

At least it was finished for now.  I needed to move on to another challenge that was presented to us on Couture Doll Shops for another magazine and it was a a big challenge.  So of course that will be a post in the fall.  Wish I could give some sneek peeks because I think it turned out great and there’s a bonus tutorial coming with it but you all will just have to wait…..

When that challenge was finished I was able to move on to finish the last component of this one- a jacket.  Taking inspiration from the Regency era, a ruffled front, pouf sleeve jacket emerged  to be worn over the corset.  Also, new pictures needed to be taken since the other ones were done in haste.

I love how this photo shoot turned out

White Rose will be available on my website Angel Rose

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Sharing a commission

I finally finished this commission a few weeks ago. I do hope the new owner enjoys it. Meanwhile please enjoy the pics.

Nouvelle Melodie

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CDDC Challenge #3-Embellishment

Oct 6th

Em-bel-lish: v. 1. To add beauty or ornamentation; decorate. 2. To heighten the interest of by adding details.

Here is our new challenge given Oct 4:
Embellished – Our guest judge this week is known for her fabulous embellishments. Use your creative skills to create an outfit that is the epitome of perfect embellishment.

Hmmm, I don’t really embellish my designs much-well at least not for the 16″ divas. Now my BJD’s I’ve been doing the silk ribbon embroidery and the 18th c gowns which in the 18th century embellishment was the thing.

My first thought of inspiration for this challenge was to check out my files and books on LaCroix. One of my favorite designers, his use of embellishment, fabric mixing and draping is unsurpassed. He, in my eyes, is a true genius in the fashion world.

Original inspiration design

Original inspiration design


00200m
Detail

Detail


My other thought is to also go through my historical books, especially ‘Historical Detail of the 17th and 18th Centuries’. Wow, the embroideries, trims and fabrics are amazing. Slowly, ideas start forming in my head, maybe mixing a little of my SRE with free motion machine embroidery appliques, 18th c fashion…… to the sketchbook!!!!
18c corset
18th c stomacher
Corset third quarter of 18th c
18thc gown


Oct 7th

Started gathering up fabrics today. I have some brocades, tapestry types and lace. Nothing is really coming together yet, not sure what I want to do the skirt in. So I decide to check out a couple fabric stores.
I only made it to one store and found a tan with light green, pink and light brown check heavy taffeta type fabric. I have some damask and other tapestry fabric that I think might blend with this. And my gold lace that I plan on doing applique with will look good too. Unless I decide to do the pink and gold lace I have. We’ll see after the base is done.

embroidered birds and butterflies maybe?

embroidered birds and butterflies maybe?


So I now have my preliminary fabrics, I start drafting a base pattern for my muse. For this challenge I decide to use Antoinette- I just got her after being preordered forever and soon discover her body is completely different than any of my other dolls. First step now is a basic sloper! I got that done tonight- so I think I will call it a night for now.


Oct 12 9am

I worked most of the weekend on the corset. The fit ended up a little smaller than anticipated but will still work I think. It depends on how much of a perfectionist I am going to be with this. I need to finish the bottom edge today and figure out how to put the sleeves in. Probably hand sewing which I hate to do. The silk ribbon embroidery though, turned out very nice. Overall I am liking the look so far. I wish I would have thought out the construction on this a little more, but when you do your own patterns it is always a trial and error. I just don’t have the time to spend on too much error. Like Tim Gunn says- “Make it work”!!!



Oct 12 6pm

The sleeves just aren’t working out. I didn’t think through construction and the armholes are too small to try to hand sew for it to even look presentable. I tried satin stitching around them-it is ok but not up to my standards. I’ll go forward with a mesh top underneath instead of just sleeves and work on the skirt. Hopefully I will have time to redo the corset. Maybe without straps this time.
first corset



Oct 14 9am

I managed to make a little top instead of sewing sleeves to the corset. It turned out very cute but something is still not right. I worked on the skirt most of yesterday and that isn’t turning out like I planned either. UGH!!! I hate when this happens but it can’t turn out perfect every time. I think the corset is throwing me off. Right now it looks too Ren Faire. I am going to work on a new one today and streamline it more. For one, make it strapless, and change the bottom of it. Maybe that will help. I should have just gone with a wedding dress- but I am sure someone is doing that. I mean, how perfect is a wedding gown for embellishment?



Oct 14 9:47pm

Worked on a new corset today. Got the whole thing done-SRE and beading. All I have to do tomorrow is the binding on the bottom.
I have also played around with skirt some more and now I think I will go short. It seems more playful especially for Antoinette. I kept looking at all my LaCroix files for skirts and I’m really liking his shorter fuller skirts. So I have a few ideas to play with. I also did a gold lace top- but I like the black with pink embroidery and to do black tights on her with the lighter muted pastel colors. I think it needs a sleep on it again. Ideas always come to me in the middle of the night. (Doesn’t provide very good sleep sometimes though.)

LoriLDetailExtra



Oct 18th 10:45 pm

Just sent my pics off. Whew! Again, sending them in at the last moment almost. Well, I ended up going short with the skirt and love the way the whole thing turned out. My daughter really likes it too-especially how I did her hair.
Hair styled
Hair back

I mean, I pretty much went all out on this-styled it to a T. Very LaCroix, I think. I spent all day making shoes- sculpted heels yesterday and made a mold. Casted two heels today and finished the black satin pumps because I pretty much have no shoes for Antoinette.
Shoes
She was pretty fun to design and sew for and very fun to photograph. I just wished she would stand a little better on her own. Now I am inspired to do some more things for her.
LoriLFront
LoriLExtra2
LoriLBack
LoriLExtra3

Now that this challenge is finished, I have the daughter’s Halloween costume to sew.
Wish me luck on the Challenge and the Halloween costume(on getting in finished in time!)




Oct 25 9am

The scores are in. I didn’t win or come in second. But I did come in third and am now in second place overall. Not bad. This next one is going to be tough- but the whole competition is pushing me to lengths I haven’t really gone before. I’m sure after this whole thing is finished I will have grown as a designer.
Well here is what the judges had to say:

Shane Theme: 4.5, Originality: 4.5, Creativity: 3, Construction: 5

I admit I struggled with this one a bit. I absolutely love the lines of the fashion and the embellishment is mostly fantastic. The ruching on the skirt and the delicate ribbon embroidery and beading on the corset send me. I think the embroidery on the blouse and the jeweled adornment on the corset go too far and become a distraction from an otherwise fantastic look. Finally I think I would like to see the corset and the skirt better tied to one another through a slightly higher level of matching or complimentary colors.

Diana & Janet: Theme: 4.5, Originality: 5, Creativity: 4, Construction: 4

Diana:

I was very taken with the overall effect of this outfit, and the imagination of bringing the pieces together. Great work on the corset.

Janet:

I think this is utterly beautiful, and I was enthralled in the detailing in the corset. My eye was slightly distracted by the uneven finish on the delicate neckline of the sheer top. A better finish here would have taken it over the top!

Judith: Theme: 5, Originality: 5, Creativity: 5, Construction: 5

Tremendous outfit, wonderful skirt. Something different with fabulous detail.
Lovely silhouette.

Magalie Dawson: Theme: 5, Originality: 4, Creativity: 4, Construction: 4

I must have spent the most time on this design trying to decide if the mismatch of the elements worked or not. At first look, I loved it, and after I thought that the plaid taffeta did not work. But finally I saw that the silk ribbons repeated the colors in the skirt, and the mesh top tied with the black tights. The embroidery work is exquisite. I love the asymmetrical look, just as if roses had bloomed there naturally. I would have liked the mesh top to be a little more finished, but I love it!

Total Score: 71.5

After reading the judges comments, I saw the finishing on the top in the pictures, but had submitted already before I noticed it. That is the problem with waiting till the last minute. I didn’t have the time and was too tired to really take in the details shown in pics. I also wondered if the judges would ‘get’ my design. Like I said before it was very LaCroix and not everyone gets Christian LaCroix with the mixing of patterns and stuff and his use of embellishments. Overall I was very happy with my design and I guess that is what counts.

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A Long Awaited Project

Have you ever been in a spot where you don’t know which direction to go next? I’m at that spot now. As I write this post, it will probably help me clear my thoughts and figure out what to do. I have one commission left to finish and then I am done with commitments. Whew! So where do I go from here? Do I do something that really inspires me? Or do I do a collection for those demanding 16″ Divas that I can make money on? And I do need money. It’s just that the thought of making the same thing at least 4 times and 12 different items to make at least 4 times each- well it just doesn’t sound appealing.

Here’s what I think I’d like to do. Finish a long awaited project. I started last year a riding habit for ReganReganprofile
An 18th century black silk riding habit. I had a corset finished and the base for the hat, a pattern drafted for the jacket but that is about as far as I got since other things became priority. Now the other thing is, is I don’t know if I would be able to sell it once finished. It’s something I have wanted to do for a while and will want to keep it. I should just do it. But then I have to make some money-especially if I need a new car and a new doll which is a whole other post.
I will do the riding habit. See, I knew my thoughts would clear out. I think. I want to make a Victorian one for Katara. I think she would be so regal in it. One like I have done for the 16″ girls
Victorian inpsired riding habit
We’ll see how it goes. I’ll be sure to post.

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Fleurs d’Antoinette

Another 18th c inspired gown.

Fleurs d'Antoinette BJD

Fleurs d'Antoinette BJD

I love everything french, Marie Antoinette, 18th c inspired and historical fashion. Such a period of extravagance. The details that the gowns had, and to think that they were all made by hand! I have many books on the details of the fashion of the 1700’s, and it is truly breathtaking. One thing I do plan on doing this summer is to visit LACMA for the textile and fashion and FIDM’s fashion museum.
I think this is why my favorite designers are Christian LaCroix and John Galliano. Both of these talented designers use the 18th c as inspiration in many of their designs. Especially LaCroix. He is just pure genius.

Love it!

Love it!

I have been having such fun doing these historical gowns for the Asian Ball Jointed dolls. I think they wear the fashions well and add a touch of whimsy to the style. I still have several fabric prints I plan on doing. Guess I better get a move on!

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