Tag Archives: Numina Grey

Summer Blues…

Ok, it’s been a while, I know.  And so much has gone on I don’t even know where to begin, but I’ll start posting little things from the last several months going forward.

Meanwhile, I’ll start at the present.

Summer! Ah, who doesn’t love it, with it’s sunshine and blue skies, sandy beaches, and cool ocean breezes.  While I guess not everyone has this climate, but living in Southern California, I’m very lucky I do.  And that is one thing that inspired this mini collection.  On one of my last shopping trips to Mood, I purchased this beautiful shades of blue designer silk chiffon.

fabrics from mood

shades of blue designer silk on far left

I also ended up having in my large fabric stock some other blues that happened to blend in rather nicely.

Summer Blues fabric selection

Shades of blue-from top- light grey silk chiffon, textured blue chiffon, designer print silk chiffon and metallic blue knit.

I wanted to do easy summer dresses, the kind you would just slip on for summer with silver statement jewelry.

The mini collection of Summer Blues-four short dresses, three long gowns and a skirt with bodysuit ensemble.  Available now at the Madeleine Rose Couture boutique

Here are a few of the looks:

Short silk print dress

Knit Tank Gown

Summer Blues print gown

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Steampunk Couture

Back in July we were given another and one of the last challenges on Couture Doll Shops.  This one was on the current Steampunk craze.  NOw I love Steampunk, and there are so many different genres of it, I had to decide which way to go.  First thoughts would have been using one of my larger BJD’s to model, but I had just got my new OOAK Numina from Paul Pham and really wanted to use her.

Victorian and historical clothing are one of my favorites to design- funny how I never really paid attention to it when I was younger and going to fashion schools. One always appreciates the past as they get older.  I think I am also much more into fashion in a different way than I was back then too.  I can see the influences past and historical fashion has on current designers- although some of the greats (John Galliano, Christian LaCroix, McQueen) are not showing designs at the moment, two being out of work and the last having passed away.

Anyway, I wanted to Victorian influences as the base of my design.  Stay with the true Steampunk origins.  Lots of research of Steampunk went into finding out what Steampunk really was- so many blogs and websites.  It really is quite interesting.

I decided on a a corset, jacket and short skirt with a bustled back.  I didn’t take too many pics while making it but did take some- so here’s how it went.

Making the Corset

Trying to do something a little different than just a corset so I decided to quilt the fabric like I have in some previous designs:

I used my basic corset pattern drafted a while ago but had to fit it to the Numina body.  Muslin sample:

From the fabric stash (since I am trying to use up the fabric I have on hand) here are the fabric choices for a old Victorian feel

Ivor silk brocade, tan and ivory herringbone twill with just a touch of rose stripe, and a rust colored crossdye silk taffeta.

Quilted taffeta for the corset

First I quilted the taffeta then cut out my adjusted pattern pieces diagonally on the fabric.

Because the quilted taffeta has a stabilizer for the quilting I did not need to interface the body but did interface the lining.

Corset taking shape

corset lining in ivory brocade

Finishing the corset up, the top and bottom are banded with bias cut strips and hand sewn on the back.  Antique brass eyelets for lacing are added and the corset it done!  Now onto the skirt.  My time is starting to run out………

Finished corset with banded edges

Corset back with eyelets and lacing

Assembling the Skirt

The skirt I made out of the ivory brocade, a basic mini skirt, and added a drape like the Victorian fashions, in the taffeta.    The train I drafted by hand,  cut it out in muslin to make sure I had the right shape and sewed it up in the taffeta with the brocade lining it.  This I hand sewed on to the back of the skirt.

Skirt with drape

Train ready to be hand sewn onto skirt

The last part was the bustle and this was a little tricky to figure out.  I din’t want something super large and wanted something light enough that could also be removes.  I also wanted to use lace.  The brocade was just too heavy to do a full bustle out of.   Again I drafted a shape out of paper to test it, cut it out of a nylon tulle and sewed layers of pregathered lace onto it.  Finding the right lace at the right width was a challenge,  I liked how it turned out though

the top was banded, then attached using snaps

From here my time was really short and I made the jacket without pictures.  It was lined in the ivory brocade.

A top hat was also made and I’ll add a tutorial for that later.

Love how the photo shoot turned out.

Steampunk Couture

Steampunk Couture can be viewed and purchased at Madeleine Rose Couture

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Be Mine- Valentine Customer Appreciation Promo


Yes CDS is at again, and this time with a Valentine Promotion for the customers at Couture Doll Shops. Actually anyone can buy any of the great items that are special for Valentine’s Day that are being offered at many of the shops at Couture Doll Shops
They are also doing a fun Scavenger Hunt and prizes will be awarded to the winners. Bummer that I can’t play- I love searching for stuff.
Check out more info on this at the CDS Blog
So here at Madeleine Rose Couture I created a little gown for my CDS Shop for my new favorite Divas, the Numina, but it will also fit Jamieshow bodies as well (which by the way are fabulous too, I have to get a pic of my Margeaux posted on her new bod)

Valentine gown on Numina

Be Mine features a delicious concoction of candy pink silk charmeuse, bias cut to drape and swirl, a one shoulder gown with deep wine velvet bows and red, red blossoms accenting the shoulder.

It is available in the boutique at Madeleine Rose Couture

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CDS-The Other Red Carpet Challenge

You can read what the challenge is here

February 22, 2010 The Making of An OOAK Gown
Red Carpet again. Well I guess with the Oscars right around the corner it seems fitting. And Purple. Hmmmm. Guess I’ll have to pull out my purple stash that I don’t even know if I have. Purple is not a color I collect too often. But I do believe I have some; an orchid color silk velvet and vintage pale lavender beaded silk; a deep lavender silk charmeuse I could use with a black lace. I immediately think of Dior’s Spring 2010 RTW collection with the lingerie inspirations.

Dior Spring 2010 RTW

Dior Couture Fall 2009

February 23, 2009 On with the Design!
I start fitting a bodice to a Syb but there is Psyche (Numina Grey) looking at me-“When are you going to do my gown? You know the crossdye orange and ombre mesh?” Yes I know. I’m dying to use this fabric but it is not purple. But, the fabric shop did have it in a purple tone, didn’t they? If I remember correctly. I’m going to have to check that out.

February 24, 2010 Idea Changes
I ran down to the fabric shop after work today and picked up the purple ombre mesh. It has a lot more brown in it than I remembered but I still think it will be pretty. Now to find a coordinating fabric for the bodice.
While I was going through my fabric bolts I ended up finding (buried under some other taffetas) a bright purple crossdye that blends in great with the mesh. I forgot I had this one! Now I will be able to do sister gowns: one in purple and a similar style in the oranges.

Ombre mesh and silk taffeta

February 28, 2010 Fitting the Bodice

I started fitting a bodice to Psyche. For this I am going to use an existing corset pattern I drafted a few years ago on the Tyler bustform.
I sewed up the corset in muslin and tried it on Psyche. It’s a little big in the chest but the waist length is good. I’m going to pin in where it is big and mark it it on the muslin. I also want to change the front seamline a bit, so I am going to mark that as well.

Muslin toile on Psyche, adjustments marked.

Back view. You can see it's a little large


Now I am going to cut along my marks, and take apart the corset where there are seams along the marks as well as cut away the seam allowances.

When I cut a pattern, I always make a couple copies (I have a 4-in-1 copier at home, makes it very convenient for pattern making).
Placing the cut muslin pieces on top of their corresponding paper patterns, you’ll see where to draw new lines.

muslin pieces on top of their paper pieces


From here I true up the seams and and seam allowance. I’m also changing the bottom line from a V to a curved drop waist.

truing up with a french curve


seam allowance added and bottom adjusted


matching the seams and notching

March 2, 2010-Going Straight to the Fabric
From here I would usually make another toile to check fit on the revised pattern, but I have enough fabric to do another if it doesn’t work. Besides,(and I know this sounds a little conceited) but I am pretty confident in my pattern making skills that the fit will be pretty near perfect.
So here it goes…. I’m underlining the pieces in a stiff cotton underlining instead of the usual woven fusible I use.

underlining basted on the taffeta

Here the seams are stitched and pressed open; topstitching is going to be applied for decorative purposes and to hold the boning. I’m using a Sulky rayon embroidery thread and an edge stitch foot to get a precise top stitch. I set the needle position to 1/8″ away from the seam and the edge stitch foot fits neatly into the seam.

edge stitch foot and topstitching

corset with topstitching


See how great the topstitching is? From here, boning will be inserted after the bra cups are sewn in.

Bra sewn in-boning inserted and checking fit. I couldn’t be happier with how it’s turning out. Psyche is too- she can’t wait to strut her stuff on the runway.

checking the fit before lining is sewn in.

March 5, 2010-Starting the Skirt
Tonight I sewed in the lining. I’m dying to get the skirt started though. Drafting out a skirt on tissue, I’ll use this as a guide and stabilizer to sew the ruffles on.

corset almost finished- lining sewn in


tissue skirt pattern with guide lines drawn

I want this skirt to be flowing- not stiff so I found some mauve tulle that will work well for the underskirt the ruffles are sewn to. Plus I’ll be able to see the guide lines rather than having to draw them onto taffeta.

lines drawn for ruffles and tulle base pinned on top


First row of ruffles- I’m using a 5:1 ratio for the ruffles and am starting at the bottom. I managed to get two rows sewn on tonight.

first two rows of ruffles sewn onto tulle underskirt

March 7, 2010-Skirt is Finished
I finished sewing all the ruffles this weekend. Seven rows of tulle confection. I have already attached it to the corset and decided to have the corset lace up the back. It has turned out gorgeous and Psyche is thrilled. Now it’s onto the accessories.

ruffles getting sewn on- skirt is pinned to the corset at this time

March 11, 2010 Finished!
The accessories I decided to make were a silver faux leather clutch and matching crystal heeled sandals-in which shoe making needs to be a another tutorial. So here is the final gown-Passion. Psyche looks so great.
Close up of Passion
Full gown
Crystal heeled shoes

This will be on the CDS (Couture Doll Shop) blog fashion show and for sale on my website Madeleine Rose Couture

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CDDC-Are you WoMEN MAD?

Well here we are at challenge seven, just this one and one more to go.

Challenge Seven: November 29, 2009

Due: December 12, 2009

Mad WoMEN – Our guest judge this week is the owner of the fabulous Dressmaker Details. This line is famous for it’s fantastic cocktail fashions with that 60’s flair. Your challenge this week will be to design the perfect cocktail fashion for your model, who by the way will be wearing your design as she guest stars in an episode of the wildly popular TV series Mad Men, entitled, The Cocktail Party.

Guest Judge: Steven Fraser

Another 60’s inspired challenge? Well at least I’m in the mode for it and I can be much more creative with this one. Cocktail huh? Looks like 60’s cocktail seems like alot of sheath dresses and bateau necklines. I’ve never seen Mad Men-I’ll put it in Netflix queue and check it out. At least I have some great props- including a cigarette and cocktails (if I can just find them! LOL).

November 30th-Research
I spent the morning going through vintage patterns, Mad Men images, L’Official mags from 1960 and some of my designer books. Getting a feel for 1960 cocktail dresses, dresses with coats or short jackets. Sheath style or semi full skirt, pretty simple in design. Lots of brocade, beaded bodices, and fur.

I think I need to figure out my model. Trapeze Sybarite-I used for the first challenge- has that 60’s look to her. Wouldn’t it be a hoot if I used an Fashion Royalty doll (12″) or Barbie? No one would expect that from me. Only thing is, I’m not inspired by them and my clientele is for the 16″ girls.

I’m also thinking of using Psyche (Grey) again. She kind of has a the 60’s inspired makeup but not as drastic as Trapeze. Besides she won it for me in challenge 2.

I have two designs drawn out, one with two neckline variations. I have to think of color- one of them I think would be superb in a kelly green silk taffeta. I’ll have to take pics and see how it photographs on Psyche.
The other is a deep red silk chiffon or grey silk chiffon with black velvet bands.

Two designs for Mad Men challenge

second sketch for challenge- neckline variation

I also took some pictures of Psyche in the color fabric I would like to use to see how she photographed in it. I really like the red but am leaning towards the design I would do in green.

Kelly green taffeta

deep red chiffon with taffeta under

I ordered some new wigs, two in shades of red, so they might look awesome on her in the green taffeta. It would be very Mad Men, kind of like Joan, but I need to make sure I keep it different as well. I don’t want to do a character on Mad Men, I need to create a new character that is guest starring.

December 9-Progress
I got my patterns drafted and now it was time to make the toiles. I’m not sure about this skirt style now that it is made up in muslin.

I’m thinking it might be a little ambitious and too busy for the sleek style that the Mad Men fashions show. If I take out some of the ruching- it may start to look like Joan’s green dress.

Joan's green dress

Maybe I shouldn’t even use green, but it just looks so great with the carrot red wig. I guess I could try grey, but I’m running out of time to be so indecisive.

December 10-Crunch Time
I researched some more and more and more. The images I could find and what I have watched off the show (mostly beginning of S1) the fashions are pretty simple. So I really need to stay simple to an extent to stay in the theme of the show. I don’t know how that will score in originality and creativity points though. I don’t know how one can do vintage design and still make it original.
I’m worried about being too simple but that’s what won me the Audrey challenge. I’m wondering if I should go with the red chiffon now-because it’s a little simple but yet has some difference. I should just whip it up and see.

December 11-Decisions, Decisions

I came up with another design. Took the ruching out of the skirt and placed it along the bodice. Started draping the fabric around the doll with to get an idea.
Draped fabric, red wig
I like this, slim cut with interest at the top.

December 12-A Very Bad Morning
Today was the morning of all mornings. Yesterday I got quite a bit done on my dress, since I finally figured out what I was doing. When I get up in the morning, I usually look at the work I did the night before because my sewing table is right outside my bedroom. Well, I took one look at my doll I was using,(she was lying on the table) and her wig was gone!! My little kitten(who is now 6mo old and getting into everything, as of this writing she has also lost one of my chipped off doll fingers I needed to glue back on) took it off her head. I’m pretty sure it was my kitten because I heard her messing around my sewing area early this morning after I kicked her out of my room.

Now I can’t find it and that was the wig that made my whole look. Hopefully my daughter will be able to find it-it’s her mission today.
Then to top it off, I spilled a little coffee on my dress that was lying on the table. Not my morning! I’m hoping it doesn’t stain, although silk taffeta-oohhh. So again I am going to be rushing last minute to get this done. I will be so glad when this contest is over. I had debated whether to compete or not, wondering if I would have the time.
I’m just hoping we find the wig and it’s not torn apart.

December 13-Finishing

I spent the day finishing up the dress and making the accessories. I went with some black Chinese dragon print brocade for mules and a clutch. I made some gloves with some of the individual fingers separated because I really hate those mitten style ones and Grey has such beautiful hands. But boy were those a b!@#*to make. And they are kind of bulky so I won’t use them too much.
Got my pictures taken and submitted with less than two hours to deadline.

December 14-Designs are Up
The designs are posted, and there are some really good ones in there. Emilia’s is very unique- funny I have that same brocade-I looked at it once for this challenge but really had wanted to do a bright color. #6 is really nice too and right on target with the early sixties vibe. Kathi’s is really nice and her construction is perfect. So this is going to be tough-I really don’t envy the judges.

December 15-A Little Problem
I received an email from Larraine today. It appears that I am in violation of one of the rules #2. Designers must submit original designs. Commercial or any other type of purchased patterns are not allowed. Anyone using patterns will be removed from that individual challenge; subsequent use of patterns will require elimination from the CDDC.
It is the original part that concerns her. Four of the designers had contacted her about my design being a direct copy of a dress from this site that was posted on the CDDC group.
Oh no, what am I to say- It does look like a copy and I didn’t even realize it. I had failed to differentiate what I had seen with the images I designed in my head. This is going to cost me this challenge probably. I should have recognized the resemblance, but with the pressure of the time and my brain being on design overload I failed to.
Maybe I can still defend myself.

December 17-Another New Design
I was so busy yesterday Christmas shopping with my husband, I didn’t have time to do anything about my design. For the moment Larraine and I agreed to keep the images on the site-I was hoping the judges would still score, but she told me a few of them felt uncomfortable scoring it. They were all very saddened by it but were equally impressed by the design. Even though I couldn’t work on anything yesterday it still tugged at the back of my mind. I was kind of sick to my stomach all day knowing that all this hard work is being thrown away. I was also thinking about what I might be able to do to save it still. I’ll change the design around some to make it no longer look like a copy but still keep the look I was going for. If I use the original dress and just change-using the original as inspiration maybe the judges might give me a chance.
The new dress:

New Challenge 7 design


I kept the pictures the same to keep the essence of my original submission. I even had a really cool story that went with my entry:
The Cocktail Party- It’s 1960 and famous french fashion designer, Chantal Delacroix, is launching her first perfume, Mysterieux, in the United States. She hires famed advertising agency, Sterling Cooper, to develop the advertising for it’s debut. In honor of her arrival in New York, Sterling Cooper is throwing a grand cocktail party.
Chantal arrives in a beautiful green silk taffeta, slim cut cocktail dress. The drape seems to roll up around the body and ends in a train effect in the back. It encases one shoulder leaving the other bare with but a single strap ending in a bow accenting the bodice. Fully lined in white silk taffeta. Her accessories are black Asian printed silk satin mules, with a matching clutch lined in the same green taffeta as her dress. She also arrives in black gloves that she removes shortly after arriving to the party. Chantal Delacroix is Numina Grey by Paul Pham.

Larraine agreed to discuss this with the judges so now I just wait.

December 18- The Final Decision
The judges need to stand by their decision-it needs to be disqualified other wise it will show special treatment. It is unfair to the other designers for a new submission because I had already seen the other designs by now. Not that it put any influence in my new design choice. I would not have let it- I stayed with my own aesthetic.
I understand and respect the judges decision. I figured it didn’t hurt to try. I’m hoping this doesn’t put me back too far. I know I have no chance of winning this competition now- which is too bad because I have worked really hard and really embraced this competition to my surprise. I know a lot of the designers probably even wondered why I entered.
I did it on a fluke, my family is always asking me why I don’t try out for Project Runway, so this was the thing that was similar but in my interest. I wasn’t sure what I was in for-it has proven stressful, fun and challenging. I have met some new friends in the doll world and I hope to keep in contact with them even when this is over. And hopefully Larraine will continue with another contest and maybe I’ll be a judge-that would be interesting too. Maybe she might consider that.
I did get scored on my design from two of the judges even though these score will not count. I finally got solid 5’s from Shane and I was very happy about that for some reason.
Here were my two scores:
Shane: Theme: 5, Originality: 5, Creativity: 5,
Construction: 5
A gorgeous fashion, meticulously constructed.

Steven Fraser:Theme: 5, Originality: 5, Creativity: 5
Construction: 5
Beautifully made, great attention to detail and scale, even the revised one was just as good, amazing talent under pressure.

Well, now I am in 8th place with a total score of 435. Even if these two scores could be added I would be in 5th place with 475, one under Kathi.
I’m sorry that this happened but you live and learn.
I’m still continuing since there is only one challenge left to go.

Cocktails Anyone?

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